Marshrutkas

I (Todd) want to tell you about the Marshrutkas, or mini-buses, in Baku. Laura and I live in the “suburbs” of Baku with Laura’s aunt and uncle. Thus, I have about a fifteen minute drive to work. For the first few weeks of our trip I took a taxi to work. Taxis cost about four manat (USD 5) each way to my office and are relatively quick and convenient.

Four manat each way can start to add up though. After a few weeks, I noticed that in Baku there are buses, called Marshrutkas, which many locals use. My aunt had warned me about the buses but I refused to listen. Marshrutkas are like church vans from hell. They are vans with all the luxury stripped out and metal handrails and hard seats installed. No air conditioning, little ventilation, no shocks, no personal space and no patience from other passengers. I haven’t seen another westerner riding one yet. But, they only cost 20 qepik (USD .25) to ride for an unlimited distance.

I have to walk about ten minutes to a bus stop to get on my Marshrutka, number 327. I walk past construction, slums, through a medical school, over the hills, and through the woods. This morning the bus was arriving just as I got to the stop and I had to run to get on. When the door opened, several Azerbaijani men tumbled out and then pushed back on. I also squeezed into the bus while imagining what a circus clown must feel like. I sat smushed against the front windshield and contemplated my spinal injuries if the Marshrutka wrecked. To exit the Marshrutka you signal the driver to stop anywhere you want, hand his 20qepik, and get off. This morning I was sitting in a position so that I had to collect the other passenger’s money as they exited the bus. I got off the bus about two blocks from my office in the middle of a street during rush hour. Another interesting and incredibly inexpensive ride to work.

Another interesting facet of the Marshrutka is that men always get up to let women sit down. Younger women also get up for older women. One day I stood up so a young woman could sit down and she insisted on holding my bag in her lap until I exited the bus. Why? No idea. Needless to say, the sights, sounds, and smells of the Marshrutkas are an experience every Baku traveler should have.

Love,

TJ